Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Belize Zoo and the Blue Hole National Park

When I was in Burlington exchanging a pair trail running shoes the cashier at Outdoor Gear Exchange had just returned from a trip to Belize. He recommended the Belize Zoo and today I decided to do just that.

The Belize Zoo was originally started as an animal rescue and then grew from there. Today it serves to promote the importance of saving local wildlife and habitat. It was also mostly populated by American tourist groups. I went wherever they were not. The first cage I went to was the Red-lored and White-fronted Parrots. It looked empty but this huge bird dive bombed the cage inches from my face.
We spent a little time staring at each other and making odd noises back and forth. Once we had cleared the air he seemed content to climb and squawk at me if I tried to go away.
The next bird was equally inquisitive. This was a Toucan, and like the parrot it was happy to get as close to me as possible.
And closer.
Then I met the Collared Aracari Toucan, who was so friendly it was startling. Again, inches from my face.
Or maybe it was that he thought I looked tasty.
I saw a huge bird of prey, called an Ornate Hawk Eagle, which seems to be bragging a bit. The I ran across the Ocelot. Maybe 3 feet long and not very high, but just seemed to glide across the forest floor.
Next stop was the Puma, there were two cages and the two Pumas were pacing up and down the shared wall.
There was an excitable River Otter, who wanted to do a staring contest with me (I won). Then a Black Panther, just chilling in the shade. Actually most of the big cats where pretty mellow in this heat.
The Coutimundi cage had both the regular and two albino ones. This guy was nose deep in the ground and quite happy about it.
In case you felt your life was incomplete without crocodiles they had those too, bot the American and the Morelet variety. This guy was just waiting for his opportunity.
A very curious Great Grison was in the next cage. Again so friendly it was like be would not have minded coming home with me (note: there are armed guards there, do not attempt).
Next came the Paya (I think) it looked to be about the size of a house cat but a nearby tour guide said that they are very viscous and are double jointed in the paws to they can climb down trees as well as up.
Next in line, the Jaburi Stork. All 6 feet of him. He just stood there looking at me disdainfully, if he could speak I imagine it would have to be in an English accent.
Harp Eagles were impressively large, the sign explained that despite popular belief there are no reports of them taking babies away. They guys were the size of osprey in Vermont and a huge wingspans.
Jaguar...mundi was the next one, a small brown cat with a quiet way about him.
The last one I will talk about is the jaguar. They were feeding him a mid day snack and I got to take some pictures from inches away. He looked at me a couple time I think hoping I had food but alas.
Amazing creature.
There were Tapirs and monkey and deer and wild pigs as well but it was hard to get good pictures of them. Okay, so after all of that I then went to the Blue Hole National Park off of hummingbird highway. There is both the Blue Hole, a collapsed cave which now is a pool of water 25 feet deep, and then there is St. Herman cave where Mayan priests in training would go. There was a decent hike in but the cave was amazing.
I was the only one there, so I got the cave to myself. This is the view back out, I had brought my own flashlight so I could go in 200 yards but after that I would need a guide. It comes out on the far side, a through and through.
I went as far as I could go, turned off the flashlight and just listened. It was a wonderful experience.
Then I hike up and down many hills to get to the other mouth of St. Herman's cave. there also was Crystal Cave, where you can only go in with permission. It was a sharp dropped.
Finally rounded up to the top of the ridge to climb a sketchy firepower to take a wonderful panorama. One of the steps may have cracked in half when I stepped on it.
Finally went to the actual Blue Hole. Actually I was really beat at that point so I went to the other side where no one was and there were fish and dangled my feet.
The steps out and my final return home for more water and a badly needed shower.

Monday, May 13, 2013

Belize Bird Sanctuary and Spicy Shrimp

Today began with a trip to the Belize Bird Sanctuary. It was something I had found at the last minute and emailed to see if I could volunteer. However, the email saying when I should come to do so arrived while I was traveling. I got it too late to help with the morning feeding but another volunteer gave me a short tour. Nina, the owner, has been doing this for years in conjunction with the Ministry of Forestry. Her property houses over 60 birds in different cages.
Some are just there for rehabilitation, some did not heal in a way that would allow them to survive free or are too aggressive for release. There are special permits required to have these birds but you get the bird and set everything up and then apply, rather than the other way around. Several birds had been reclaimed by the Forestry service due to neglect, feathers turning bright yellow instead of green from the lack of vitamin A.
The Ministry of Forestry is not a big organization though so it is hard to enforce or protect bird species just in the same way it is hard to protect the wilderness reserves. This is an example of a bird that looks pretty but is very aggressive. He was constantly fluffing the feathers around his neck at me and utterly what I could only assume was bird curses.
Nina runs the only bird sanctuary and what makes it complicated is that you cannot export exotic birds from Belize, so all of those that are too aggressive to release are there for life. The only way around this is providing birds to the Belize Zoo or to tourist places if they can care for them.
At the end of the road was a teak farm, these are apparently teak trees.
I then spent the rest of the afternoon researching other places to go and painting this. It is the pool where we are staying.
Last but not least we went to a pizza place and got spicy shrimp pizza. It was as tasty as it looks.
They also had this contraption, two table fans zip tied to the post. Simplicity itself. As I sit on the porch I am watching a massive rain storm start to come in, the perfect end to the day.

Belize, the adventure begins

The smell of burning brush filled the air as we drove down the highway in Belize. I had arrived a mere half an hour ago and during the long arcing approach to the airfield in the 747 it was hard to ignore the dozen or so columns of smoke, but it had not prepared me for the almost burned rubber smell.
Ashley explained that it was the way locals cleared land. Many times in the dry season in May those small fires would get out of control and spread. This only marginally overshadowed the trash and a poverty that was spread along the road. I watched the surroundings fascinated as we rolled over highly humped speed bumps heading into the center of Belize.

And yet I would rather be here. The whole journey began as my friend Ashley's last minute query if I wanted to go to belize for a week. To get down there the journey would start on Saturday at 5pm and end on Sunday in Belize at 10:30 am.

By the end I took a car, two buses, three airplanes, a relatively hostile train and had a fortuitous meeting of an old friend in the early morning hours in Washington, D.C. Seventeen hours later I was in the midst of smoke on a badly humped road in the middle of Belize

We are staying in Belmopan, the Capitol city. It was an odd
combination of tropical aesthetic and marginal poverty next to international embassies. It is a small town by most standards, many roads where dirt including the one leading to the wonderful villa we were staying. It was a wonderful place with a small pool in back a thankfully a breeze to alleviate the 90 degree day.

After cruising around the neighborhood we found a tasty cafe called Blue Moon whose heart sandwich was welcomed, as was this hilarious menu item. Vast tracts of land...

And this odd sign as well...

Followed by a tasty dinner we retired to the porch as darkness fell. The neighborhood had a healthy and vocal pack of dogs whose sincere chorus went on into the night as palm trees blown by the wind mimicked the sound of a summer rain.

Sunday, May 5, 2013

5-5-13 Niquette Bay Walk and First Kayak Trip of the Year

I haven't been feeling particularly well so my Sunday was more low key than original planned.  Still, I took Sal for a walk around Niquette Bay. 
He we quite grateful for the excursion.
The Great White Trillium, trillium grandiflorum, in bloom.
Presenting a not-snow-covered Mount Mansfield.
The view North West across Lake Champlain to New York.
They had this handy display at the park entrance, all the wildflowers for around here.  Useful I am sure.

This was also the first kayak trip of the year.  The water was still 50 degrees but I could not resist.  It was 70ish and sunny so I took to the water.
Shelburne Bay, boats already at their mooring.
Down LePlatte, a turtle sunning itself placidly.  It pulled of a haughty attitude well enough as I drifted by.
And the egrets were already hunting in the reeds.
Feet up, relaxed.
Beavers that moved in last year have built a home.  Did not see them stirring though.
A woodpecker chewing away at a log.  I was within 10 feet and he did not seem to mind.
Everything was starting to bloom, a brilliant first kayak of the year.


Saturday afternoon

Took a walk Saturday afternoon down to the waterfront in Burlington.  It was as beautiful as it looks




Saturday, May 4, 2013

5-4-13 Honey Hollow in Springtime

After an even longer week than the last one and a visit from the folks, a beautiful day meant I had to go out with Sal.  We drove up Honey Hollow Road and started the run/walk (I seem to have something nasty going on with my lungs so I could not run far).  
I can't express how nice it was, 73ish, no humidity, a light breeze and flowers starting to come out everywhere.
A quick search reveals them to be Carolina Spring Beauty (Clatonia caroliniana).
Some areas where more vibrant than others, the pink coming out more strongly   It makes me wonder if there is something in the soil there or if it is the genetics of those specific plants.  There was one section where these flowers turned the hill into a pale pink carpet.  Just stunning.
This, of course, is Red Trillium (Trillium erectum).  There were not a lot of these but what was there seemed so refined and all pointed to the ground instead of up at the sun.
Sal had some energy to get out (he is passed out on the couch as I type this).
There was a woodpecker that went to town on this tree.  The top looked like it was trying to bud but so much damage probably means it is dead.  Although if there were enough bugs to deserve such a treatment I am sure it was not in great shape anyways.
Camel's Hump peaking through the side of a hill.  This is probably the last time for the summer I will be able to see it from this trail as the trees will fill in.
Sal and I took a detour off trail up a steep ridge.  The top was not bald so no clear views but the far mountains should be Mount Mansfield if I had my bearings right.  The detour was a hard one, there were tons of downed trees and Sal and I were scrambling up, down and and underneath to get to the top of the ridge.  It was close to vertical in parts.  My legs were bleeding from some decent scratches by the end but it was a lot of fun and well worth it.
Found this pile of feathers.  I am guessing a turkey moulted?  There were no bones from a kill.
Someone did a cute little pile of rocks on the side of the road.  Sal, as always, trying to get into the shot.
Oddly when I looked at the photo afterward I could not see it but a wild turkey crossed the road on my way down.  It was maybe 20 feet into the woods to the right and it put Sal into quite a state.  Still, the photo shows nothing.

What a great way to spend a day.

4-28-13 CAT Trailrun

After a long week I decided I would take Sal out for a little trail run up my favorite place, CAT trail.  There were only a few cars there and for one of the first truly nice days of spring that was exactly what I was hoping for.
It still looks a lot like fall in this shot but it was about 73 degrees out there.
The sun and clouds were perfect, just a nice day to be out all around.
While I did try to run as much as I could I did stop for a couple of flowers starting to bloom.  I decided to start getting to know what some of these are so I look am looking them up when I get home.  This is a Trout Lily (Erythronium americanum).  
Always thirsty Sal.  Even though he is a shorthaired dog he still gets hot when we run in the spring so I make sure we stop and I point to the streams so he knows it is okay to stop and drink.
The Sun, just right.
There is a little chasm near the beginning of the trail so I had to stop on the way down.  Just beautiful.
Sal, owner of all he sees.  Which is why he pees so damn much