Guanacaste National Park and Artwork

Today was a bit more low key than the last last two. i ended up walking to Guanacaste National Park after a slow morning. It is about 2 miles in 91 degree heat. I was at least smart enough to walk with a full water bottle and a brimmed hat. On the way a watch dog started following me but I put on my Caesar shoes and shushed that dog down. The connecting road wasn't so much a road as a burned trash heap. Such a different place.

Guanacaste National Park is only about 50 acres of thick rain forest with tall trees that host all sorts of epiphytes (plants that live on other plants, like orchids that live on tree limbs). The park was empty, I hung around for five minutes to find someone to give my entry money to (about $2 American). I was already pretty sweaty but it got worse as I went along.

I did run into this chain of leaf cutter ants, they were working diligently and had even cleared a path through the ground debris. One piece of leaf had two ants on it and they were fighting each other to move it, flipping one then the other into the air.

There is a river that ran through the park. It was crystal clear yet the trash the lined the banks made me disinclined to get wet.

The other side of the platform the led down to the swimming hole.

Originally this was a railroad yard, this is the remains of a locomotive engine. In no way shape or form did I hum Indiana Jones theme at any point while exploring.

I also came across a small burn, just one of those spontaneous burns. It was odd to walk through. The palm trees here are huge, some must have been close to 50 feet with fronds around 20 feet long. The scale of everything was so odd, and the thickness of the underbrush incredible.

There was a limestone river bed there that had all these cool holes worn into it. The bridge I was standing was not confidence inspiring so I did not try to get closer.

One the filthy hot walk back on the shoulder of the road (I have massive respect for those that have to walk, although I was the only one that seemed to be sweating, so...) I went past this. I think it is a per enact structure for a huge tent, any other guesses?

I spent a good chunk of the day painting too. Here are the three I did today, first one inspired by the burning I have been seeing everywhere.

This is another view out of the place I am staying, the black bird was screaming his lungs out on top of that pole.

This is a lot of the Belize roadside, poverty with bright pains and sad children while the fields burn behind them. I have a great respect for this country at this point but it really gives perspective on what I actually have.

Belize Zoo and the Blue Hole National Park

When I was in Burlington exchanging a pair trail running shoes the cashier at Outdoor Gear Exchange had just returned from a trip to Belize. He recommended the Belize Zoo and today I decided to do just that.

The Belize Zoo was originally started as an animal rescue and then grew from there. Today it serves to promote the importance of saving local wildlife and habitat. It was also mostly populated by American tourist groups. I went wherever they were not. The first cage I went to was the Red-lored and White-fronted Parrots. It looked empty but this huge bird dive bombed the cage inches from my face.

We spent a little time staring at each other and making odd noises back and forth. Once we had cleared the air he seemed content to climb and squawk at me if I tried to go away.

The next bird was equally inquisitive. This was a Toucan, and like the parrot it was happy to get as close to me as possible.

And closer.

Then I met the Collared Aracari Toucan, who was so friendly it was startling. Again, inches from my face.

Or maybe it was that he thought I looked tasty.

I saw a huge bird of prey, called an Ornate Hawk Eagle, which seems to be bragging a bit. The I ran across the Ocelot. Maybe 3 feet long and not very high, but just seemed to glide across the forest floor.

Next stop was the Puma, there were two cages and the two Pumas were pacing up and down the shared wall.

There was an excitable River Otter, who wanted to do a staring contest with me (I won). Then a Black Panther, just chilling in the shade. Actually most of the big cats where pretty mellow in this heat.

The Coutimundi cage had both the regular and two albino ones. This guy was nose deep in the ground and quite happy about it.

In case you felt your life was incomplete without crocodiles they had those too, bot the American and the Morelet variety. This guy was just waiting for his opportunity.

A very curious Great Grison was in the next cage. Again so friendly it was like be would not have minded coming home with me (note: there are armed guards there, do not attempt).

Next came the Paya (I think) it looked to be about the size of a house cat but a nearby tour guide said that they are very viscous and are double jointed in the paws to they can climb down trees as well as up.

Next in line, the Jaburi Stork. All 6 feet of him. He just stood there looking at me disdainfully, if he could speak I imagine it would have to be in an English accent.

Harp Eagles were impressively large, the sign explained that despite popular belief there are no reports of them taking babies away. They guys were the size of osprey in Vermont and a huge wingspans.

Jaguar...mundi was the next one, a small brown cat with a quiet way about him.

The last one I will talk about is the jaguar. They were feeding him a mid day snack and I got to take some pictures from inches away. He looked at me a couple time I think hoping I had food but alas.

Amazing creature.
There were Tapirs and monkey and deer and wild pigs as well but it was hard to get good pictures of them. Okay, so after all of that I then went to the Blue Hole National Park off of hummingbird highway. There is both the Blue Hole, a collapsed cave which now is a pool of water 25 feet deep, and then there is St. Herman cave where Mayan priests in training would go. There was a decent hike in but the cave was amazing.

I was the only one there, so I got the cave to myself. This is the view back out, I had brought my own flashlight so I could go in 200 yards but after that I would need a guide. It comes out on the far side, a through and through.

I went as far as I could go, turned off the flashlight and just listened. It was a wonderful experience.

Then I hike up and down many hills to get to the other mouth of St. Herman's cave. there also was Crystal Cave, where you can only go in with permission. It was a sharp dropped.

Finally rounded up to the top of the ridge to climb a sketchy firepower to take a wonderful panorama. One of the steps may have cracked in half when I stepped on it.

Finally went to the actual Blue Hole. Actually I was really beat at that point so I went to the other side where no one was and there were fish and dangled my feet.

The steps out and my final return home for more water and a badly needed shower.

Belize Bird Sanctuary and Spicy Shrimp

Today began with a trip to the Belize Bird Sanctuary. It was something I had found at the last minute and emailed to see if I could volunteer. However, the email saying when I should come to do so arrived while I was traveling. I got it too late to help with the morning feeding but another volunteer gave me a short tour. Nina, the owner, has been doing this for years in conjunction with the Ministry of Forestry. Her property houses over 60 birds in different cages.

Some are just there for rehabilitation, some did not heal in a way that would allow them to survive free or are too aggressive for release. There are special permits required to have these birds but you get the bird and set everything up and then apply, rather than the other way around. Several birds had been reclaimed by the Forestry service due to neglect, feathers turning bright yellow instead of green from the lack of vitamin A.

The Ministry of Forestry is not a big organization though so it is hard to enforce or protect bird species just in the same way it is hard to protect the wilderness reserves. This is an example of a bird that looks pretty but is very aggressive. He was constantly fluffing the feathers around his neck at me and utterly what I could only assume was bird curses.

Nina runs the only bird sanctuary and what makes it complicated is that you cannot export exotic birds from Belize, so all of those that are too aggressive to release are there for life. The only way around this is providing birds to the Belize Zoo or to tourist places if they can care for them.

At the end of the road was a teak farm, these are apparently teak trees.

I then spent the rest of the afternoon researching other places to go and painting this. It is the pool where we are staying.

Last but not least we went to a pizza place and got spicy shrimp pizza. It was as tasty as it looks.

They also had this contraption, two table fans zip tied to the post. Simplicity itself. As I sit on the porch I am watching a massive rain storm start to come in, the perfect end to the day.

Belize, the adventure begins

The smell of burning brush filled the air as we drove down the highway in Belize. I had arrived a mere half an hour ago and during the long arcing approach to the airfield in the 747 it was hard to ignore the dozen or so columns of smoke, but it had not prepared me for the almost burned rubber smell.

Ashley explained that it was the way locals cleared land. Many times in the dry season in May those small fires would get out of control and spread. This only marginally overshadowed the trash and a poverty that was spread along the road. I watched the surroundings fascinated as we rolled over highly humped speed bumps heading into the center of Belize.

And yet I would rather be here. The whole journey began as my friend Ashley's last minute query if I wanted to go to belize for a week. To get down there the journey would start on Saturday at 5pm and end on Sunday in Belize at 10:30 am.

By the end I took a car, two buses, three airplanes, a relatively hostile train and had a fortuitous meeting of an old friend in the early morning hours in Washington, D.C. Seventeen hours later I was in the midst of smoke on a badly humped road in the middle of Belize

We are staying in Belmopan, the Capitol city. It was an odd
combination of tropical aesthetic and marginal poverty next to international embassies. It is a small town by most standards, many roads where dirt including the one leading to the wonderful villa we were staying. It was a wonderful place with a small pool in back a thankfully a breeze to alleviate the 90 degree day.

After cruising around the neighborhood we found a tasty cafe called Blue Moon whose heart sandwich was welcomed, as was this hilarious menu item. Vast tracts of land...

And this odd sign as well...

Followed by a tasty dinner we retired to the porch as darkness fell. The neighborhood had a healthy and vocal pack of dogs whose sincere chorus went on into the night as palm trees blown by the wind mimicked the sound of a summer rain.

5-5-13 Niquette Bay Walk and First Kayak Trip of the Year

I haven't been feeling particularly well so my Sunday was more low key than original planned.  Still, I took Sal for a walk around Niquette Bay. 

He we quite grateful for the excursion.

The Great White Trillium, trillium grandiflorum, in bloom.

Presenting a not-snow-covered Mount Mansfield.

The view North West across Lake Champlain to New York.

They had this handy display at the park entrance, all the wildflowers for around here.  Useful I am sure.

This was also the first kayak trip of the year.  The water was still 50 degrees but I could not resist.  It was 70ish and sunny so I took to the water.

Shelburne Bay, boats already at their mooring.

Down LePlatte, a turtle sunning itself placidly.  It pulled of a haughty attitude well enough as I drifted by.

And the egrets were already hunting in the reeds.

Feet up, relaxed.

Beavers that moved in last year have built a home.  Did not see them stirring though.

A woodpecker chewing away at a log.  I was within 10 feet and he did not seem to mind.

Everything was starting to bloom, a brilliant first kayak of the year.